Travels with Grace: Crossing Into Mexico, 1940

Posted on September 3rd, 2019 by

This week’s entry for our 2019 #TravelTuesday series: Traveling with Grace, follows along as she heads over the border into Mexico. As mentioned in earlier posts, the language and prejudices used in Grace’s writing are very much of her time and may be disturbing or uncomfortable to read, for instance, her description of the indigenous peoples of Mexico leaves much to be desired. To read more of Grace’s travels, click here. 


International Bridge, Laredo, TX, 1940-1960s. Via.

Mon. July 8th. We left San Antonio at 11 AM. Reached the International bridge at Laredo about 2:30 where we had quite a long wait to get our papers O.K.’d  and our baggage examined. An insurance agent was very helpful, got us a policy to cover the car while in Mexico and helped us thru the customs. The ride was rather monotonous until about an hour before we reached Monterey when we started climbing the mts. and the temperature became more agreeable.


Vintage Postcard, Hotel Ancira, Monterrey, Mexico. Via.

Monterey is a pretty Spanish city nestling in a circle of mts. There is a square in front of our hotel the Gran Ancira where musicians sit and serenade the tourists. The Cathedral is very imposing and this hotel quite pretty in Spanish style, beautiful paintings, heavy carved furniture, iron grill work. We have a handsomely furnished sitting room next to our bedroom. The shopping section is large and merchandise well stocked. Outside the city are beautiful orange and avocado groves and attractive haciendas. In the country we pass many Mexican cowboys with broad sombreros, on horseback. Large herds of milch goats contest the roads with the cows and we have to pull up short to avoid hitting them. It is quite hot here in the middle of the day and everyone takes a siesta, some men lying in the ditches by the road-side, others, beneath their [Tuedes???] and wagons. The little burros are heavy laden with fagots of wood or hitched to loaded wagons. There are many varieties of cacti along the way small and big, some very decorative, as well as a variety of palms and banana trees.


Vintage 1940s Mexico travel poster, Mexican Tourist Association. Via.

Tues. July 9th. We leave Monterey and ride 160 miles to Victoria passing only a few very small villages en route. Many names of ranches are posted along the road. Thatch-roofed cottages and queer looking rustic animal enclosures abound and here and there one sees a handsome stucco “Escuela.” The people are very friendly and courteous, smiling salutations and going out of their way to direct us. They are working on the roads everywhere which they keep in very good condition. Arrived at the Sierra Gorda hotel (Victoria) about 4. It is surprising what comfortable modern hotels they have in these small towns (35,000 inhabitants). The only mishap on the way was when our hatbox broke its moorings on the road and scattered its contents over the road but fortunately Milton saw it in time thru the rear-view mirror and salvaged nearly everything.


Hotel Funicion Zimapan Mexico Postcard. Via.

Wed. July 10. We left Victoria at 9:30 and the ride to Zimapán was one of the prettiest and most interesting I have ever had. At times we feel like we are riding thru the African jungles. The vegetation is so dense and the natives so primitive living in their grass and mud huts thatched with palm leaves the doorways open to the passing world. We can look in and see the mud lined walls and simple woven fiber chairs. Cows, pigs, chickens, goats comprise their riches. Here and there a little adobe tile-trimmed cottage looks like a palace by comparison. As we approach the mts. the scenery becomes wilder and more majestic, the roads curve sinuously upward, the valleys show intricate patchwork patters far below. Here and there a river threads thru the valley. Corn is planted right up the steep mt. side alternating with banana groves. Horses and goats climb the mt. sides like monkeys. Bright wild flowers abound. I wish I knew the names of them but I only recognize the bougainvilla and African daisies, trumpet vines and mimosa. Quaint old Spanish churches with carved images and tall belfries mark every village. After steady climbing we reached Zimapán about 6:45 a small village but the hotel Funicion is most attractive and up to date. Like all Mexican hotels it is tiled throughout, has interesting pictures by Diego Rivera in the dining room lavishly trimmed with iron grill work. A man plays the piano quite well during dinner. Later we visit the pretty little chapel and talk for a while with the other guests on the terrace. It is moonlight, the air bracing yet balmy. There is a large swimming pool on the terrace. The proprietor gave me his own room and bath on the first floor as there is no elevator.


Thurs. July 11th. Mrs. Parks came down to my room early to bring me birthday cards from the Smith-Greenhood families. We left Zimapán about 10 after a good breakfast (and I want to record here that meals so far in Mexico have been most satisfactory and far above expectations). We could not get any gasoline when we left here (had half a wank full) and Milton husbanded it with great care closing off the ignition and coasting down all the mts. At the next village we stopped expectantly at the first filling station only to be told they wouldn’t have any in the pumps until tomorrow. So with great trepidation we decided to risk it for another 10 or 12 miles and at the next village we held our breath until the filling station attendant smilingly nodded yes to our eager question and I could have kissed him. Native men and women crowded around us with large trays of different fruits balanced on their heads (it is beautiful to see how gracefully they balance all sorts of things that way) and we bought peaches and figs.

Hotel Maria Cristina lobby, 1940s vintage postcard. Via.

The country as we rode to Mexico City is quite different, broad cultivated fields which the peasants work in the primitive way, though one sees modern machinery in this part of the country. Palm and cactus lined highways lead to the city and 2 large statues guard the entrance where officials stop us to examine the papers for the car and we engage a licensed guide who took us right to the hotel Maria Cristina where we have bedroom, parlor and bath. We are lunch in the parlor and then the guide located a room for Milton. He took us to the Mexican Auto Ass’n, affiliate of the AAA where a lot of lovely birthday mail awaited me. Then we went on a tour of the city. Visited 3 flower markets and the guide bought me 3 corsages[?] for my birthday. At 1 of the markets we saw the most tremendous and elaborate funeral wreathes I ever saw. Visited the swanky residential section, the homes being very ornate and of a modern Spanish architecture with very little if any grounds around them. Saw the business section and bought a real leather hat box for $20 which replaces the one that fell off the car roof and smashed the other day. Mrs. Parks says it’s a bargain, no tax. Saw some beautiful monuments, parks, opera house, historical bldgs., university etc. and then feeling tired called it a day. Dinner at the hotel was good topped with strawberries which grow here 8 months of the year.


Jorge González Camarena (Mexican, 1908–1980), poster for Mexican tourism, published by Tourist Department of the Mexican Government, Visit Mexico, 1940s–1950s. Color lithograph. Harry Ransom Center, Texas War Records Travel Posters Collection, 85.185.44.

Fri. July 12. I went to the International Bank to get an Amerex changed, a very busy place. WE then bought tickets for the bull fight Sun. Next we rode to Toluca, a very pretty ride over the mts. We passed an extinct volcano. It is very cool. In Toluca a bustling town of 70,000 we saw the weekly market like which I have never seen anything before. The Indians for miles around bring in their animals, pigs, chickens, ducks, rabbits, turkeys, serapes, jackets, baskets, blankets, pottery, tortillas, fruits, sweets, the most colorful conglomeration imaginable and such crowds. Our guide just plowed his way thru them with the car and they fell away to either side like the parting asunder of the Red Sea. The faces are most interesting to study, Indian, Spanish, Mongoloid in a motley attire and all ages from tiny babies to old patriarchs, some gay and friendly with smiling faces, others stolid and impassive. They have a sort of carnival in the background with the usual midway attractions. On our way back we see women washing their clothes on stones by the river and even in the dirty stinking canals. Just before going to the trout fish hatchery we rode thru a heavy hail storm the ground quickly covered with white stones. It lightened, thundered and grew suddenly cold. At the hatchery we saw the eggs, baby fish in tanks and the full grown ones in round ponds outdoors. It is a pretty landscaped park and we ate box lunches which we bought at Sanbories[?] in a little glassed-in pavilion with tiled-topped tables. From here we visited the so called Desert of the Lions an old Carmelite monastery with tiny cells and catacombs. Here the Indians are selling their leather goods, silver, blankets and laces and there is a sort of campground with refreshment stands and sidewalk tables. A beautiful ride thru a thick forest of spruce brings us out to another attractive suburb and the guide shows us an excavation in a lava mound where bodies have been exhumed after an ancient eruption similar to what I once saw in Pompeii.


Thanks for reading “Traveling with Grace,” a series where we’re sharing (and annotating) posts from the travel diaries of Grace Amelia Hecht, native Baltimorean, b. 1897 and d. 1955. As mentioned in my introductory post transcription errors sometimes occur and I’ve made my best guesses where possible, denoted by [brackets]. – Rachel Kassman, marketing manager


 

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Once Upon a Time…11.23.2018

Posted on August 28th, 2019 by

The Baltimore Jewish Times publishes unidentified photographs from the collection of Jewish Museum of Maryland each week. If you can identify anyone in these photos and more information about them, contact Joanna Church by email at jchurch@jewishmuseummd.org

JMM 2011.29.282

Date run in Baltimore Jewish Times: November 23, 2018

PastPerfect Accession #: 2011.029.282

Status: Unidentified – do you recognize these Levindale volunteers and residents, c. 1970?

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Travels with Grace: Heading South, 1940

Posted on August 27th, 2019 by

Grace Hecht travel diary, 1940. JMM 1985.154.1.3.

This week we embark on a new journey with the stalwart traveler Grace Hecht. This particular 1940 trip takes us southwards and eventually across the border! To read more of Grace’s travels, click here. 


Sunday, June 30th: Left Baltimore at 10 A.M. via Frederick, Harper’s Ferry, Winchester Harrisonburg to Roanoke, Va. Where we stopped at Hotel Roanoke. Dr. Meyers his wife and baby came to see us.

The Hotel Farragut, Knoxville, Tenness vintage postcard. Via.

Mon. July 1st left Roanoke at 9:30 had lunch in Bristol and arrived in Knoxville at 5:30 at Hotel Farragut. Very pretty mountain scenery en route.

Tulip Grove, Hermitage, TN. Photo by Lester Jones, Historic American Building Survey (HABS), August 19, 1940. Courtesy of the Library of Congress.

Tues. July 2nd Left Knoxville at 9:30 very pretty scenery along the way. Had picnic lunch on the way which they prepared at the Farragut Coffee Shop. Nashville is the largest city visited en route to Jackson. Passed Andrew Jackson’s home “The Hermitage” en route. Arrived at Jackson’s Hotel New Southern at 6. We gained an hour as they have central time here. Sat on the sidewalk (everyone does) after dinner.

Wolf River at Memphis with Mud Island and bridge c.1937 by Joe Gresham. Gift of Pink Palace, Memphis and Shelby County Room, Memphis Public Library & Information Center.

Wed. July 3. Left Jackson at 9:30 for Little Rock (Hotel McYehee[?]). On way stopped in Memphis a very nice city and ate picnic lunch in the park. Crossed the Mississippi into Arkansas. See lots of rice and cotton fields.

Hot Springs, Arkansas aerial view postcard, 1940s. Via.

Thurs. July 4th. Left Little Rock at 9:30 for Palestine (Oneill Hotel). Rode thru Hot Springs, Ark. A very busy spa where we saw a number of handsome bathing establishments and fine hotels. Scenery very pretty around here, mts., lakes and rivers. Passed thru Texarkana, Red Water, Marshall etc. arriving in Palestine about 6:30 after driving around 350 miles. The personnel here are very accommodating, even leaving a ramp made to go over the step in the bathroom.

State Capital, Austin, created by the Texas View Company, c. 1935. Courtesy of the Library of Congress.

Fri. July 5th. Left Palestine at 9:30 and stopped in Austin on the Capitol grounds for picnic lunch. Very pretty building of pink granite, one of the finest capitols I have seen, surmounted by a statue of Justice, surrounded by a park tree shaded and adorned with many monuments. Arrived in San Antonio about 3:30 and went to the St. Anthony Hotel, a very good hostelry indeed. As my knee has been hurting more and more, I sent for Dr. Borshein recommended by the hotel.

St. Anthony Hotel, San Antonion, Texas, 1913. St. Anthony Hotel, San Antonio, Texas – Front. [1913]. Special Collections, University of Houston Libraries.

Sat. July 6th. Sat around the hotel today and this evening entered the Santa Rosa hospital at Dr. Borshein’s suggestion so that I could receive some diathermy treatments and immobilize my leg. This is a very nice institution. En route here we saw the palace of the old Spanish governor, an ornate rococo structure. We also saw a very busy shopping section of good-sized stores. Here for the first time on the trip we see large palm trees. Saw the old Alamo with its pretty walled-in garden and a beautiful white marble monument to Freedom.

Mission San Antonio de Valero, Alamo Plaza, San Antonio, Bexar County, TX. Photo by Arthur W. Stewart on April 8, 1936 for the Historic American Buildings Survey (HABS). Courtesy of the Library of Congress.


Thanks for reading “Traveling with Grace,” a series where we’re sharing (and annotating) posts from the travel diaries of Grace Amelia Hecht, native Baltimorean, b. 1897 and d. 1955. As mentioned in my introductory post transcription errors sometimes occur and I’ve made my best guesses where possible, denoted by [brackets]. – Rachel Kassman, marketing manager


 

Posted in jewish museum of maryland




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