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Traveling with Grace: from Asheville to Home

Posted on November 26th, 2019 by

This week, our #TravelTuesday series, Traveling with Grace, takes us on the final leg of Grace’s 1940 journey! To read more of Grace’s travels, click here.


A Big Black Bear along the Road, Great Smoky Mountains National Park GSMNP, North Carolina NC, Tennessee TN, Vintage Wildlife Postcard, 1940s. Image via.

Tues. Aug. 20. We started at 10 o’clock to go to the Great Smokies National Park. The weather was perfect and everything is so beautifully green. We went thru the Cherokee Indian reservation and on up to Newfound Gap and Clingman’s Dome altitude about 6,642 ft. On the way down we ate our box lunches and just as we had finished a big black bear came strolling up the road with a forest ranger in pursuit trying to get him off the road as he feared a possible accident with one of the cars. We threw the bear a couple of apples which he chewed up daintily and we followed him back up the road as he was such a curiosity. The next tidbit he found was a watermelon rind which he munched in rapturously, drooling as he ate. Later on we saw so many bears including a family of father, mother, and several cubs fording a stream and others climbing up in the trees, also a few opossums.

Vintage 1940s postcard – The Highway Tunnels in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Image via.

We went up to Gatlinburg on the Tennessee side and then returned by the same way. The road goes thru several tunnels in the mts. and at one place forms a know going thru a tunnel and winding right on top of it. We completed the round trip of 220 mile and returned to the hotel about 6. It was too much for Carolyn and she went right to bed without any dinner but the rest of us enjoyed ours as we were very hungry.


Beaver Lake, Lakeview Park, Asheville, North Carolina. Image via.

Wed. Aug. 21. This afternoon we went to call on Carolyn’s friend May Haven and her little boy. We had quite a time finding the house but with our usual perseverance finally located it and had a pleasant visit there. Later we rode out thru the Beaver Lake section and Lakeview Park where the best residences are. Tonight Major Haven called on us at the hotel.


Asheville Regional Airport, c. 1940-1960s. Image via.

Thurs. Aug. 22nd. Started Carolyn to the airport at 12 o’clock and her plane which was due at 1 never arrived until 4:05 but we had lots of fun while we waited. She is so jolly and has so many funny jokes to tell in her droll way. We watched several large and small planes come and go and finally hers came so we put her on board and watched until it was out of sight. On the way back to the hotel we got out at the Three Mountaineers Shop where they have some pretty imported and antique bric-a-brac and then it started to rain hard, so we stayed in the hotel the rest of the evening.

Biltmore House showing Lily Pools, Asheville, NC, c. 1940s-1960s. Image via.


Fri. August 23rd. After lunch we shopped at the 5 and 10, then visited the Biltmore Estate which I had seen before, but I wanted the others to see it. Watched the dancing this evening.

Sat. Aug. 24th. Rain today so we rested most of the afternoon. Tonight watched the horse races, talked to some of the guests and watched the dancing.


Mayview Manor, Blowing Rock, NC., 1940s. Image via.

Sun. Aug. 25th. Took a long walk thru the hotel grounds this morning. This is one of the loveliest places and there is just about everything anyone could wish for. After dinner we started for Blowing Rock and it was a magnificent ride over the mts. all the way. In some places we ride right thru the clouds. We arrived at the Mayview Manor around 5 and it was so cold I wore a sweater and coat. This is one other pretty mt. resort not as pretentious as Grove Park Inn but very attractive and we are most comfortable. The rooms have windows overlooking the tops of the mts. and we can look deep down into the valleys. The flower arrangements in the lobby and dining room are simply gorgeous and they are done by Mrs. Chapman, wife of the manager who makes it her hobby. The food is simply delicious, better if possible than Grove Park Inn. There is a nice long porch for me to exercise on and the views on all sides are lovely.


Mon, August 26th. Rode over to Boonsboro a pretty ride and gave the town the once over. Met a woman on the street selling the most beautiful strawberries and we bought a box for tomorrow’s breakfast which we have served in our room. In the evening an orchestra gives a nice concert.


Flat Top Manor (aka Cone Home), c. 1940s-1950s. Photo courtesy of National Park Service/Blue Ridge Parkway. Image via.

Tues. Aug. 27. Rode around Blowing Rock. Saw the Cone home (Miss Etta is staying there) and the club house where Lazaron’s are staying. There are some very pretty houses and shops in this small town.


Wed. Aug. 28th. Left for Waynesboro, Ga. this morning over the Blue Ridge Parkway. The scenery is simply magnificent, far prettier than Skyline Drive. We stopped for picnic lunch having brought a variety of fancy rolls and buns and fruit from Mayview Manor. Arrived at the General Wayne which seemed like an old acquaintance to me and is just as nice and quiet and clean as when I was here in 38. After a good dinner we sat in the lobby and talked to some ladies who later joined us in a bridge game.


Thurs. Aug. 29th. Left Waynesboro this morning by way of the Skyline as far as Big Meadows. Took a short cut to Washington where we had a late lunch (or early dinner) at the 400 Club which was very poor. We tried the Washington Hotel Roof but they were not serving meals at this hour. We ate in company with some very questionable looking characters and I was glad to get out. Phoned Cousin Carrie who told us to come up so we paid them a little visit at Woodley Park Towers and told them about our trip. Arrive home in a powering rain about 8 P.M.


Thanks for reading “Traveling with Grace,” a series where we’re sharing (and annotating) posts from the travel diaries of Grace Amelia Hecht, native Baltimorean, b. 1897 and d. 1955. This entry is the final one in Grace’s 1940 travel diary. We’re going to take a quick break in December and then pick back up with Grace’s travels in January 2019! As mentioned in my introductory post transcription errors sometimes occur and I’ve made my best guesses where possible, denoted by [brackets]. – Rachel Kassman, marketing manager


 

Posted in jewish museum of maryland




Traveling with Grace: Atlanta to Asheville!

Posted on November 19th, 2019 by

This week, our #TravelTuesday series, Traveling with Grace, takes us from New Orleans into Atlanta, GA and Asheville, NC! To read more of Grace’s travels, click here.


Interior of Bankhead Tunnel Under Mobile River, Alabama, c.1930-40s. Via.

Mon. Aug. 12th. Sorry to leave this nice place but must be on our way again. The road follows the gulf a good part of the way. We had intended visiting the Bellingrath gardens out of Mobile but found it would take too long and it was not worth the price at this time of the year. In Mobile we saw some lovely old Southern mansions, a few of them turned into boarding houses and went thru the Bankhead Tunnel under the Mobile river which cuts off some of the distance (its exactly like the Holland Tunnel in N.Y. only smaller). At Bay Minette we stopped for lunch and Mrs. Parks put the tray of dishes on the front seat but after we finished eating it was accidently knocked over and all the dishes broke so I wanted to pay for the damage and all the lunch room operator would take was 10 cents. About 6 we arrived at the Jefferson Davis in Montgomery which seems to be a very pretty city. After dinner we walked for several blocks along the main street window shopping and saw the capitol flood lighted up on the hill.


Atlanta Biltmore Hotel, Georgia. Via.

Tues. Aug. 13th. Before leaving Montgomery I looked up my old friend Carrie Loeb. We had a little trouble finding her as she had moved several times but we finally tracked her down and she seemed very glad to see us. We rode around Capitol hill and the bldgs. Looked even prettier than they did last night, one of the most attractive state capitols I have seen. There is also a lovely residential section and we passed one pretty synagogue. Left Montgomery about 11 but lost an hour setting watches back to E.S.T. Stopped in West Point for milk and sandwiches. Passed thru a string of little towns en route to Atlanta the approach to which is dirty compared to the other towns we had been in. Got in the Atlanta Biltmore at 6, called Carolyn immediately and she insisted that we come to her house for dinner. She had invited about 8 of her friends to meet me and we had a lovely evening.


Stone Mountain Confederate Memorial Monument in progress 1940. Photo by Edgar Orr, via.

Wed. Aug. 14th. Carolyn and Elizabeth want out with us and showed us Atlanta and vicinity. Some college campuses a number of suburbs, Decatur where Elizabeth treated us to lunch in the hotel, several parks, country clubs, Stone Mt. with its half-finished carvings of Lee, Jeff Davis, etc. started by Borglum and Lukeman and never completed, the Cyclorama of the Battle of Atlanta, Bobby Jones house, and golf course named for him. On a lake in the park we saw the cutest boats propelled like tricycles. Tonight Perrine, Elizabeth and Carolyn had dinner with us on the terrace. (I had ordered a special dinner from the maître – d’hotel) and we chatted and watched the dancing until nearly 11. It was delightfully cool here.


Techwood Homes, Atlanta, GA, late 1930s, an early public housing project in the United States. Courtesy of Wikipedia.

Thurs. Aug. 15. Carolyn invited us all for lunch at her house. Then she and her mother went out with us and showed us some more of the city including the Negro University, housing projects, better Negro residential district (all for Milton’s benefit) and then some really magnificent estates (one a miniature Fontainebleau) and many of these beautiful houses are owned by the Coca Cola magnates. Tonight we had dinner in the Coffee Shop.


Grove Park Inn, Asheville, North Carolina, 1940s. Via.

Fri. Aug. 16th. Called for Carolyn about 10 o’clock and started up to Asheville by way of Highlands, Cashiers, Waynesville and Sylva a beautiful ride thru the mts. delightfully cool. Arrived at the Grove Park Inn (after stopping for lunch at a nice little restaurant in Dillard, Ga.) about 5 o’clock. Tonight I met Ella and Milton Nathan, Mr. and Mrs. Tobreiner and Mrs. Charles Rubinstein at the hotel.


East entrance, Grove Park Inn. Via.

Sat. Aug. 17th. Enjoyed the lovely terrace and took a walk in the garden this afternoon. Met Mrs. Bertha Bauer and Mildred and Joe Siegel. Tonight we played bridge on the porch.


 Seely’s castle exterior from “Overloook,” Asheville, North Carolina. Courtesy of the D.H. Ramsey Library, Special Collections, UNC at Asheville.

Sun. Aug. 18th. Took a beautiful ride this afternoon up Sunset Mt., passed the old castle built by the late Mr. Seely who was a big publisher here and built half of Asheville, past the Asheville water shed and reservoir and on up to the Pisgah National Forest reservation with magnificent views along the way. Tonight we heard a very pretty concert at the hotel.


Asheville Auditorium. Via.

Mon. Aug. 19th. Went to the AAA this morning to arrange reservations for the remainder of the trip and for Carolyn’s plane trip home. Returned to the hotel for lunch and this afternoon visited the Antique Show at the Asheville Auditorium. Among the items on exhibit were china, bronzes, ivories, lamps, jewelry, dolls, doll furniture, samplers, buttons, paper weights, quilts, tapestries, hat pins, furniture, candelabra, miniatures, prints, and various oddments. Tonight we played bridge again.


Thanks for reading “Traveling with Grace,” a series where we’re sharing (and annotating) posts from the travel diaries of Grace Amelia Hecht, native Baltimorean, b. 1897 and d. 1955. As mentioned in my introductory post transcription errors sometimes occur and I’ve made my best guesses where possible, denoted by [brackets]. – Rachel Kassman, marketing manager


 

Posted in jewish museum of maryland




Traveling with Grace, heads into New Orleans!

Posted on November 12th, 2019 by

This week’s entry for our 2019 #TravelTuesday series: Traveling with Grace, heads into New Orleans! To read more of Grace’s travels, click here.


Canal Street, New Orleans, Louisiana, c. 1940s. Via.

Mon. Aug 5. Left Galveston at 9 and had to wait 40 min for the ferry. Stopped at Lake Charles (a very pretty city with handsome old residences around the lake) and had lunch at a Walgreen drugstore. Mrs. Allers was sick all the way and had to stop several times. At a place called Kinder we had trouble with a tire and lost more time. We went thru part of Baton Rouge and saw the capitol from a distance. The highway to New Orleans is very pretty and goes right into Canal St. We passed a number of very large hospitals all in a row. Arrived at the St. Charles Hotel (very old fashioned) at 6:15 our time (here it is 2 hours later) after traveling 357 miles.

St. Charles Hotel, New Orleans, Louisiana, at night, c. 1940s. Via.

Tues. Aug. 6. Slept late. Fasted today, the 9th of Av. Went to the Chamber of Commerce to see about a guide, then to a Chrysler place to see about repairs to the car then back to the hotel to sit on the 2nd floor porch overlooking St. Charles Ave. until dinner time. Ate at Kolb’s restaurant across the street much nicer than hotel dining room, which is punk. Took a walk on Canal St. after dinner. Best lighted street I have seen outside of N.Y. and shops very pretty.

French quarter. New Orleans, Louisiana, August 1940. Photo by Brown, courtesy of the the Library of Congress.

Wed. Aug. 7. Had a very charming guide, Mrs. Reynick, take us on a tour of the city today. We started out in the French quarter or Vieux Carré. Some of the interesting sights were: The Place d’Armes with its beautiful flowering trees and unusual statue of Andrew Jackson, the dignified St. Louis Cathedral with beautiful murals and ceiling painted by Canova, brother of the famous Italian sculptor, the Cabildo with its museum of French colonial objects and household furnishings, Pirate’s Alley made famous by Jean Lafitte who was always being incarcerated by the authorities and liberated by the townspeople who profited from his looting, the old mint, old capitol bldg. many lovely antique shops (I have never seen such a profusion of lovely old jewelry, porcelains and bric-a-brak fit for a palace), homes of the aristocracy in many of which Mrs. Reynick claims to have been entertained. She pointed out the home of Dorothy Wix, one occupied formerly by Maude [Cedans??], Robert Edson, and other famous personages. She showed us the different types of architecture, French, Spanish and Louisiana stressing the characteristic of each. Most of the old houses are tremendous, with huge porches are galleries framed in handsome iron grillwork with its beautiful lacy patterns, then there are garçonnières or bachelor’s quarters in a separate wing and servants quarters in another with a big coach house besides and lovely tropical gardens with bamboo, banana, oleander, clematis, palms, hibiscus, magnolias, crepe myrtles, etc. We saw the house of Dr. Autommarchi, private physician to Napoleon I who made his death mask of Louisiana clay, now in the Cabildo, the red brick Pontalba bldgs., first apt. houses in American built by the Baroness to house families of emigres, the old Ursuline Convent, statue of Robt. E. Lee (facing the N. some say it should have faced S. which he loved, but then he could afford to turn his back to the S. without fear), Audubon Park with statue of the naturalist looking up into the trees with sketch book in hand to draw pictures of birds. We had a delicious luncheon at the French restaurant Galatoire’s where we saw some of the elite of N. Orleans elegantly costumed, then started out on more sightseeing. Visited some of the famous cemeteries (they bury the dead above the ground and their tombs are really beautiful especially in the fashionable Metairie cemetery (formerly a Jockey Club) with 14 miles of driveway). Mrs. R. took us into one of the swanky country clubs, saw Tulane University Campus and Newcombe College, the famous Sugar Bowl stadium, the City Park with its pretty Art Museum (not as large as ours) and its famous dueling ground, out to Lake Pontchartrain and thru some of the fashionable new suburbs. We saw 2 very pretty synagogues, the house where Julius Rosenwald’s daughter (Mrs. Stern) lives, the house where the author of “Green Pastures” lives, the house where Jefferson Davis died. We went into the Casa Hové where they make perfumes. Mrs. Reynick knows Mrs. Hové and she offered to show us the house, a very good example of early Spanish architecture (built in 1797) and for a wonder we were not asked to buy anything. Unlike any guide in my previous varied experience Mrs. Reynick doesn’t accept commissions and doesn’t allow shopping on her tours. We saw the home of the family of Cardinal Gibbons (he once lived here and some of his relatives still occupy the house), the home of Etienne de Bore discoverer of granulated sugar, the home of John McDonogh and some of the 30 odd public schools he founded here, and the famous French market originally built in 1791. The coffee stands here are favorite rendezvous for refreshments after the shows in the wee hours. We again dined at Kolb’s this evening.

Thurs. Aug 8th. Mrs. R. called to inquire for our health this morning. We breakfasted at a lovely air-conditioned cafeteria across the street where they have waiters to carry your trays. The restaurants are very clean and all the people I have met here are extremely courteous. This afternoon at 2:30 we took a boat ride up and down the harbor. I have never seen such a big boat (5 decks) for such a short trip – but I later heard it sometimes goes as far as St. Paul, Minn. The Capt. Himself took me on the elevator up to the 4th deck where we found comfortable chairs within earshot of the loudspeaker and a lecturer explained the sights as we went along. We were served ice cream during the afternoon and really enjoyed the breeze. New Orleans seems to be a very large port (they claim it is 2nd in the country) and we saw lots of large freighters, on the wharves were coffee, bananas, barrels of molasses, cotton sulphur and salt. Returned at 5, went to Haring’s for the car and then strain to Antoine’s for dinner. They have used the same menu for over 100 yrs. Even tho some of the things printed on it are no longer procurable. It was lucky we got here early because it filled up quickly and when we left there was a queue a block long waiting to get in. The food was very good (I had pompano en papillotte, soufflé potatoes, French rolls, coffee and baked pear in brandy). Met Mr. and Mrs. Milton Fleisher who are en route to Mexico and they stopped for a chat and to get some pointers. I was disappointed in the appearance of the clientele here, anything but elegant with a few exceptions. Afterward we took a ride out as far as Ponchartrain Beach, a large amusement park, just to cool off.

The Buena Vista Hotel in Biloxi, Mississippi circa 1940. Via.

Fri. Aug. 9th. After breakfast at Kolb’s we left for Biloxi a very pretty drive along the gulf shore passing Pass Christian and Gulfpost. The road is lined with beautiful homes each with its little pier extending out into the water with a round pavilion at the end and usually there are a number of pelicans perched on the pilings. There are also a great many hotels, restaurants and tourist camps along the route. We reached the Buena Vista in time for lunch at 1:30 and enjoyed its tree-shaded verandah and cool breezes in the afternoon and evening with full moon above.

Buena Vista Hotel, water view. Via.

Sat. Aug. 10th and Sun. Aug 11th. Stayed at the hotel where we are most comfortable. From the porch we can watch the bathers, the watercraft and an endless stream of traffic up and down the highway. It is such a relief after the heat, etc. in New Orleans.


Thanks for reading “Traveling with Grace,” a series where we’re sharing (and annotating) posts from the travel diaries of Grace Amelia Hecht, native Baltimorean, b. 1897 and d. 1955. As mentioned in my introductory post transcription errors sometimes occur and I’ve made my best guesses where possible, denoted by [brackets]. – Rachel Kassman, marketing manager


 

Posted in jewish museum of maryland




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