Travels with Grace: Yosemite, 1924
Welcome to the next segment of our 2019 #TravelTuesday series: Travels with Grace. Today Grace begins exploring Yosemite Valley.
En Route to Yosemite (Wawona)
July 16, 1924:Left Merced in Pierce Arrow Car at 8:30a.m. Very congenial party. Roads excellent most of the way. At one time we were deep in the valley, hill bound on every side, then we climbed slowly and tortuously up the sides looking down in to the canyons. Saw much flint rock, fields of large sunflowers, the largest peach and apricot orchards in the world (Del Monte brand packing company). The hills are lined in various varieties of pines, firs, and cedars with here and there a few eucalyptus and redwoods. We saw the dense smoke from forest fires which take such a dreadful toll in [tiular??] each summer on the other side of the valley. Had lunch at Miami Lodge at noon. Splendid view of pine clad slopes from verandah. Entered Mariposa Grove(meaning [butterfly valley) at 2 P.M. (Sequoia Gigantica national preserve). This tree a species of redwood. Largest trees measure around 30 ft. in circumference and nearly 30 ft. high. Most have been burned, scarred by fire hundreds of years ago. Two have archways cut into them thru which the cars drive. They are named for states and famous people. Saw cabin of Galen Clark, discoverer of the grove. Stopped at Wawona Point 7100 ft. elevation. Opposite us is Mt. Merced 10,000 ft. and Mt. Raymond. Trees along the way a reddish gold from drought. Arrived at Wawona at 4:30 p.m. where we had dinner and spent the night. A beautiful situation on the Sierra Nevada Mts. Met Mrs. Rosenthal’s daughters here.
Yosemite Valley
July 17, 1924: Was up this morning at 5:15. Saw the sun rise over the mts. first gilding the trees on the summit and gradually throwing the light down in the valley. The thermometer on the porch registered 40 degrees and logs were burning in the fire places. After breakfast at 7:15 we started out in the autos. First stop at Chinquapin and then on to Glacier point at 9:30. Ride very thrilling. Look down over rocky ledges on the edge of the road, barely wide enough for 2 cars to pass, down thousands of feet into the canyons. Beautiful forests of redwoods, sequoias, silver and sugar pines. Many wild birds, canaries, linnets and grouse, some perching on rocks and apparently looking at us. We saw lots of deer, vary tame and almost the color of the rocks and trees. Also, numerous chipmunks. We stayed at Glacier point until 10:45. I sat on the porch drinking in a most sublime view, [viz.]. [??? ???] directly in front of me. Nevada Falls, Mirror Lake, Vernal Lake, and Falls a little to the side and the many lofty peaks of the High Sierras stretching way off into the distance with here and there patches of snow in the crevices between them. As I sat there someone in the hotel played Mendelsohn’s Spring Song and Rigoletto, a very good performer. Never before have I had such a feast for eyes and ears simultaneously.
Next, we stopped a few minutes at Inspiration Point where another glorious view was obtained. Then we descended into the valley, passing El Capitan, the 3 Brothers, the Cathedral Spires, the Ribbon and Bridal Veil Falls with spray blowing out in the wind. Received a hearty welcome at Camp Curry where we arrived in time for lunch at 1:30.
July 18, 1924: At all entrances to the Park are checking stations where all cars entering or leaving the valley must be checked up and the roads are controlled by telephone so that the cars do not have to pass one another on the steep grades. Everything goes like clock-work. Camp Curry is a delightful place, very cosmopolitan. There are over 2000 people here at present and no end of diversion including swimming tank, tennis courts, croquet, golf, bowling, billiards, cards, mah jongg and dancing every evening in a vine embowered pavilion. There is also an amusement center for the kiddies containing swings, see-saw, sand pile, toy autos and an electric railroad, with hostess in charge. All the young girls and boys employed as waiters, waitresses, etc. are from the colleges and give very courteous service. Meals are excellent. Our bungalow consists of cool, bright sleeping room with six windows, private bath and porch, all spotless. All about us are the mts. walling us in. Sometimes on glancing suddenly upwards one has the impression that dark clouds have quickly gathered, but the sun is always shining thru the tops and at night the moon (it is full now) and stars stretching like…
July 19, 1924: …a spangled canopy over the topmost peaks. The temperature is delightfully cool mornings and evenings tho it warms up considerably during the middle of the day. But there is always a breeze in the shade and the sun is never oppressive. It is a dry heat. The camp is really a young town. There are all sorts of little shops, a cafeteria in addition to the dining room, soda fountain, post office, telegraph station, etc. There are many foot and donkey trails leading from camp. In front of our bungalow is a tree inhabited by blue jays and robins that are very tame. The days are much the same in camp. Every evening there is a delightful entertainment in the open space between the main office and dining room. The chairs are grouped around a big camp fire. There is a good orchestra and always one or two violin duets and vocal solos. Last night a man sang some amusing songs to a [busy?] accompaniment and an old lady gave several impersonations. Then a man, Don Tresiddor, Mrs. Curry’s son-in-law who has a beautiful voice, gives us a short history or legend connected with incidents in Yosemite and there are moving pictures of the valley in different seasons of the flowers that grown in and around it. The high spot of the evening is the firefall, a huge mound of burning wood, thrown down the top of Glacier Point, 7200 ft. altitude. It is an…
July 20, 1924: …unforgettable sight to see the red embers falling like a shower of fire against the black perpendicular cliffs. Yesterday a beautiful stag ran right thru the camp (the people feed them) and one morning a robin flew into the dining room and hopped under the tables picking up crumbs. A little chipmunk ran up the tree which grows thru the roof of the dining room porch. The people are all so friendly.
This afternoon we made a tour of the valley. There are several pretty permanent cottages with little flower and vegetable gardens near the village. We saw the meadows where the Indians hold their Field Day exercises. There are 3 typical Indian wigwams there now. We passed a mule pack team in charge of cow boys going up the trail. Had a drink from the clear icy waters of farm[?] spring. Stopped at a point beside the Merced River, which is very shallow now and the guide here gave us an interesting talk on Yosemite. Before us the river bubbling over stones, beyond a strip of flowering meadow, a [????] of trees fencing it off, all encircled by the towering mountains and the tall straight timber. To the left of us mighty El Capitan – one freak tree growing up on its side and a perfect map of North America cut out by nature in the rock, also the face of a man known as the wandering Jew – back of El Capitan the 3 brothers – on the right of us the Bridal Veil falls, its mist blowing first to one side, thru the other in a perpetual swaying motion very graceful to behold and above this the uneven outlines of the 3 Graces. A little farther on the polished surface of North Dome, Washington, [???] the Sentinel, and [Half Dome?] in front [around ????].
On the way out from Yosemite
July 21, 1924: There are but 2 of the Cathedral Spires but evidence remains that at one time there were at least four. It is presumed they were knocked off in an earthquake. On this ride we saw many beautiful and ancient yellow pines. One good sized tree grew eight out of huge boulder with no vestige of earth near it. Many pictures are seen in the trees on the tops of the mts. such as the Indian’s profile with complete feather headdress. The entertainment at the camp on Sunday night is slightly different being of a more solemn nature. Mrs. Jillson gave two charming little sermons in her inimitable way. This morning we left the valley much to our regret. A more secluded, beauteous, restful spot would be hard to find. On the ride out we passed much of the lovely scenery that we saw yesterday on the valley tour. In addition, we followed the Merced river in its cascades over the rocks, saw Cascade Falls, passed under Arch Rock where two huge rocks meet in a point forming a natural archway. Another huge boulder projects about eight ft. over the road forming a sort of canopy. At El Portal we left the bus after an hour’s ride and boarded the train which continues to follow the river’s course. In a part of this river near the camp there is very good bathing. There is also a shady little island formed where the waters divide known as Happy Isle[?], a favorite picnic ground. We took the train at 12:45pm and followed the course of the Merced river, very picturesque in its succession of little cataracts and winding curves. The prisoners from the state penitentiary are building a road opposite the railroad tracks and they wave to us as we pass. Changed cars at Merced at 4:45 and arrived in San Francisco at 11:00 P.M.
Thanks for reading “Traveling with Grace,” a series where we’re sharing (and annotating) posts from the travel diaries of Grace Amelia Hecht, native Baltimorean, b. 1897 and d. 1955. As mentioned in my introductory post transcription errors sometimes occur and I’ve made my best guesses where possible, denoted by [brackets]. – Rachel Kassman, marketing manager