Travels with Grace: Exploring LA and its Neighbors
Welcome to the next segment of our 2019 #TravelTuesday series: Travels with Grace. Today Grace begins her California adventure.
June 21, 1924: We arrived at San Pedro at 8 A.M. the doctor coming on board to examine the passengers, which was really an empty formality. The first thing I saw was a line of big battleships on one of which they were playing the Star-Spangled Banner and it never sounded so pretty to me before. We docked at Wilmington at 10 a.m. and motored straight to the Roslyn Annex in Los Angeles (a ride of about an hour and a half) where we had lunch. The things that most impressed me on the ride were the numerous oil derricks, and open oil tanks because there is never any lightening here to cause danger, truck farms with irrigation ditches [lining] them, wonderful fruit stalls, (oranges 10 cents a bucket), walnut groves, and many palm trees which look like giant pineapples. I rather regretted leaving the boat as I had grown attached to some of the people. We rested this afternoon and had supper at the State’s Restaurant on Spring St. 518, a most attractive place serving delicious food and reasonable. Later took a walk and shopped on Main St. Streets very crowded and brilliantly lighted.

Aerial view of Hollywood – north of Melrose, between Vine and Fairfax, c. 1927. Courtesy of the Library of Congress.
June 22, 1924: Took a ride to Hollywood and Beverly Hills today. Saw a number of studios including the J.A. Clune, Mary Pickford, Charles Ray, Charlie Chaplin, Universal etc. where we caught glimpses of the “sets” used. They look quite ridiculous when one sees the hollow sides and for South Sea Island scenes they have bunches of palm trees strapped to telegraph poles. We also saw the homes of Mary and Doug called “Pick-Fair,” Charlie Chaplin, Douglas McLean, Priscilla Dean, Betty Coupon, Gloria Swanson, Arthur Letts (where Harold Lloyd’s “Girl Shy” was taken), Mrs. Leslie Carter, Gillett, the Mazon man [???], [Alla] Nazimova and many others. The bungalows are all so beautiful and each one different. The architecture is a mixture of Italian, Spanish, Moorish with [??] and there are English Tudor, but nowhere does it clash and the avenue of palms – date, cocoanut and banana – lends a stately touch. Flaming eucalyptus, acacias, pepper, lemon, olive, avocado trees and many others seen en route. Some houses entered from top story where descent is made to lower floors, garages on the roofs. Visited famous Bernheimer estate for sale at $1,000,000. Japanese gardens filled with magnificent bronzes, flowers, miniature waterfalls, temples, [joos??] horses, bridges, fair black swans, etc.

Image: Alhambra, Cal. from high-school, Dec. 24th, 1909, photo by Charles Z. Bailey. Courtesy of the Library of Congress.
June 23, 1924: Started at 8:30 A.M on the mountain-movie-mission trip going over magnificent roads, first thru the city of Alhambra, the San Gabriel valley (a stop is made at the old Spanish mission of San G.) past Lucky Baldwin’s ranch, a suburb of Pasadena, Frontridge, thru Verdugo Canyon to Glendale said to be fastest growing city I the world. Thru Burbank and Dark Canyon we came to Universal City at noon where we had a good look at the Studio [Inn?], a novel and diverting sight to watch the movie artists come in dressed in their costumes and makeup. The waitress pointed a number of them out to us.

The lake, Lucky Baldwin’s ranch, Pasadena, Cal. c. 1900, photo by Detroit Photographic Co. Courtesy of the Library of Congress.
Leaving Universal City we went thru the San Fernando Valley where we saw the everblooming trees, peach apricot, orange and grapefruit orchards, and grape vines trimmed close to the ground like bushes. It strengthens the fruit. We wound thru Topanga Canyon, first curving up to a height of 1500 ft. then down again glimpsing wonderful views all the while and coming out to the sea at Malibu Bay. Here we saw Castle Rock where many movies are taken. (Saw one being taken en route today.) Followed the beaches to Santa Monica, Ocean Park and Venice with its miniature canals, where we stopped and home thru Culver City (saw Goldwyn, [Luce??] and Roach studios here) and thru the beautiful [???] residential district of Los Angeles.

Topanga Canyon, 2013. Via.
June 24, 1924: Took a taxi this morning and rode to Famous Players-Lasky Studios, passing the beautiful West Lake Park en route. Father had letter of introduction to Mr. Eyton, general manager – entry is very hard to obtain – and he sent us all around the lot with a guide. We saw the carpenter shop, wardrobe, property room, bar room, several interior sets, and watched Cecil de Mille himself direct a scene in a picture to be called “Feet of Clay,” saw dark stage and racing bowl, among the artists acting were Ricard Cortez, Vera Reynolds, Theodore Kosloff, Rod La Rocque, all of whom we saw at close range. Others we saw eating lunch and running about. Everywhere were people looking for work, and signs reading “Positively no positions open.” From here we went to Graumans Egyptian Hollywood Theatre and had lunch at a little Egyptian café next door. “The Ten Commandments” a stupendous production was preceded by a beautiful prologue in which the stars appear in person. There is an Egyptian ballet, living pictures of the children of Israel in bondage, (singing “Chol Nidra” and “[??? ???]”); the Nativity, the 3 wise men, and the Last Supper. Most wonderful theatre and orchestra and lighting effects.

Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, 1922. Via.
Riverside

1920s postcard showing a sunrise service on Mount Rubidoux. Via.
June 25, 1924: Started out at 8 A.M. on the Riverside-Redlands and Smiley Heights trip. First stop made at Pomona, thriving town of 35,000. Then on to Riverside passing thru the heart of the citrus belt of Southern California. It is beautiful to see miles of orange and lemon orchards bordered with rose hedges, carnations, huge daisies and sunflowers, feather pepper trees, walnut orchards, all surrounded by the distant nets. Encircling the horizon, we climbed Mt. Rubidoux to the huge crucifix on top where Easter morning services are held each year. Then to the Glenwood Mission Inn. Our chauffeur took us thru the old portion built in 1876, we saw the rooms furnished in old mission style, and thru a subterranean passage called El Camino Real. Here is a magnificent Spanish altar encrusted with gold, a tiny wedding chapel, the Court of Pius X (wax work figures sent by Italy to the world’s fair in San Diego and extremely life-like in expression). Saw shops of antique bronzes, pottery, etc. Lunched on open patio filled with flowers, fountains, goldfish, humming birds, red, blue, white and yellow parrots. Waitresses dressed in yellow boleros fringed with tiny bells. At 12 o’clock chimes played “My Country Tis of Thee” etc. Spanish man and woman in costume say in balcony and played guitars. Afterward heard organ recital, visited orange packing house and fruit ranch. Passed many other towns on way home.
San Diego

American Avenue in Long Beach, CA, 1924. Digitally reproduced by the USC Digital Library, from the California Historical Society Collection at the University of Southern California.
June 26, 1924: Left Los Angeles at 8 a.m. First stop made at Long Beach, a very pretty seaside resort, where we saw the Virginia Hotel. From here we passed thru a number of beaches among which was Seal Beach where we saw a flock of seals – gray, tan and black ones lying about on the sand. Many sugar beets raised in this vicinity. Rode thru the beautiful Santa Ana Valley. Stopped at San Juan de Capistrano for lunch and looked in the Mission gardens. Saw ruins of the old mission. Rode thru San Juan Valley and passed the 210,000 acre ranch of Patrick O’Neill. Passed avocado grove where each little tree is protected by a rectangular sort of canvas screen from the wind and rain. At Point Loma we saw wonderful cliffs (Sunset Cliffs) that form a natural cave into which the ocean flows, magnificent view from this place and from [Joney Pinas?], a little further on. Saw La Jolla a most picturesque town built on the side of a mt. overlooking the sea. We got into San Diego at about 4 p.m. and after registering at U.S. Grant Hotel crossed on the ferry to Coronada where we saw [home] of Shumann-Heink, the beautiful Hotel del Coronado and the Tent City where the shacks are thatched with palm leaves. Looks like a miniature Hawaiian village. Then to Tijuana across the Mexican border a village of saloons and dance halls spring up since prohibition. Saw [??] last town in U.S. Saw bull ring and gambling houses in Mexico.

Gardens at Mission San Juan Capistrano. Via.

Tent City, a vacation land for the common man of the early 20th century, sprawls out south of Hotel del Coronado. Coronado Public Library.
June 27, 1924: After breakfasting at the U.S. Grant, a beautiful hotel with palm gardens on 2nd floor overlooking San Diego bay and situated in the heart of the city – we rode to High School with its $150,000 stadium donated by the city, thru Balboa Park, 1500 acres over Cristobal bridge. In the park saw buildings of the exposition held in 1915 including zoological gardens with buffalo, art museums, natural history, etc. concert stand with largest open air pipe organ in the world, given by Spreckels whose beautiful home we saw in Coronada, botanical gardens with magnolias, boganvilla vines, black acacias, ponds of huge pink water-lillies, jack-a-randa trees, citrus fruit trees, beautiful rose gardens,e tc. In the park are reproductions of cliff dwellings and adobe houses comprising an Indian village.

Balboa Park botanical gardens, c. 1926. Photo created by Keystone View Company, courtesy of the Library of Congress.
Next we stopped at Ramona where we went thru an interesting old Spanish-Indian house, saw where Ramona was married, various curio rooms. Indian pottery, basketry and weaving, old garden filled with many kinds of flowers, cacti of all specifies, banana trees with fruit half ripened, wishing well under trellised arbor. Man lectured about the founding of the missions and showed us old paintings and shrines sent from Spain. The road we traverse, known as El Camino Real, is indicated by mission bells standing at intervals along the way. Saw more of La Jolla today and stopped at Windansea[?] for lunch, very prettily situated over-looking the cliffs at Point Loma and the ocean. Saw houses of Walt Mason, Austin [Adajus?], Sam Metcalf, and the late Jack London. Saw where they made Everlasting flowers. Also saw lemons the size of a big Bartlett pear selling 2 for 5 cents.

The Wishing Well, Ramona’s Marriage Place, Old Town, San Diego California, c.1910-1920. Image created by Detroit Publishing Co, courtesy of the Library of Congress.
Los Angeles

June 28, 1924: Had luncheon at the States. In the afternoon received a visit from Mrs. [Alivel?] and her sister-in-law. This evening we went to the Biltmore. The dining room and grill were closed when we got there (9 p.m.) so we had supper in the [Sweet?] Shop, a dainty little place decorated in Delft blue where the waitresses dress in little laced blue velvet bodices and dutch caps and aprons. Later we had a guide take us thru the hotel, kitchen, lobbies, peacock alley, ball-room, concert room, art gallery, etc. All very beautiful and elaborate. Saw lots of girls and fellows dancing in evening dress. The orchestra music is broadcasted.
Pasadena

Tourist rides a wagon pulled by an ostrich at Cawston Ostrich Farm, 1920. Via.
June 29, 1924: Took a trip to Pasadena this afternoon. Also drove thru North and South Pasadena which are separate townships. Our first stop was at the Cawston ostrich farm where we saw many ostriches and learned interesting things about them. The mates (they only mate once) are named for various presidents for example: the Roosevelts, Tafts, Coolidges, etc. The male birds, which are very strong and can be ridden like horses, have black plumage, the females taupe. They dig their bowl-shaped nests in the ground, and we saw 8 eggs in one place. The male sits on them during the day and the female at night. I held an egg in my hand about the size of 2 grapefruits. We saw some baby ostriches 4 and 6 days old and look something like baby chicks. They mature at 6 months. They eat everything whole. The feathers are clipped once a year. We also saw beautiful peacocks, parrots, and Chinese pheasants on the farm. Went thru the shop where all the feather products are sold including hats, bags, fans, boas, bandeaus, lamp shades, etc.

Busch Gardens in Pasadena, photographed in September 1924. (Los Angeles Times).
Next we stopped at the Busch gardens, 80 acres, built on the side of a ravine with waterfalls, lakes, swans, peacocks, rustic bridges, terra cotta figures illustrative of fairy tales, beautiful palms, cactus plants and flowers. Passed over beautiful Arroyo Seco bridge. Saw many gorgeous homes of the millionaires in Pasadena including Wrigley’s, Heinz’s, Coates[?] (the thread man), Montague Glass, etc. Also, the beautiful hotels Huntington, Vista del Arroya, and Raymore. Had dinner at Hotel Ambassador (palm court) afterwards listened to Joseph Rosenfeld’s orchestra and saw movie “Triumph” in Ambassador’s private theater. Saw cocoanut grove room with monkeys, cocoanuts and butterflies on the trees. Also, beautiful shops.
Catalina Island

Avalon Bay, Catalina Island. Via.
June 30, 1924: Left at 8:45 on the Pacific Electric, made connection at 9:30 with the S.S. Avalon and at 12:15 arrived at Catalina Islands. Had a short sight-seeing ride over this very picturesque island all mts. and valleys. Saw the town of Avalon the little village of [?????], William Wrigley Jr.’s home (one of his many houses) with its beautiful flower garden. The house is built at an elevation of 88 ft. overlooking the town and Avalon bay. Then we took the glass bottom boat and rode over the submarine gardens. Saw yellow and blue perch, speckled bass and other fish as well as sea slugs or cucumber slugs, the fungus clinging to the rocks. Also saw plants with a white berry on it growing to a considerable height in the water. Kelp and seaweed visible from which they make explosives and iodine. A diver on the boat gives exhibition diving to a depth of 35ft. remaining under the boat for 3 ½ minutes. He brings up the pretty abalone shells which he sells to the passengers. Wrigley owns practically the entire island. He has a large vegetable farm which supplies the hotels. Also a furniture factory where all the furniture for the island is made. There is a nice little bathing beach here too and a country club and golf course. Saw alligator farm. They eat only 6 months in the year and live on their fat the rest of the year.
Santa Barbara

Four Californians near the entrance of Mission San Fernando, California, 1924. Digitally reproduced by the USC Digital Library, from the California Historical Society Collection at the University of Southern California.
July 1, 1924: Started from Los Angeles at 8:30 P.M. First stop made at San Fernando mission. Extreme hot riding thru San Fernando and little Santa Clara valleys. Stopped at Camulos Ranch one of the largest in this part of the country. Pretty old Spanish house where Ramona was born, (I had seen the place in the movie “Ramona” which I saw some years ago), old fashioned garden, walnut tree, largest in the world, orange, fig and lemon trees. Stopped at Ventura for lunch and saw Buenaventura Mission. Here it starts to get much cooler as we are again on the sea coast along which we drive for many miles until we reach Santa Barbara where we get a most wonderful view of mts., ocean, farm lands, and orchards; a combination so varied and colorful that it is fairly dazzling. In the harbor lies the U.S. battleship Tennessee. We also visited the Santa Barbara mission, with Indian burial ground in rear of it, said to be the most beautiful of all the missions. Went to the Hotel Arlington, very odd and spacious, built in mission style with beautiful porches, terraces and gardens. When we arrived, they had logs burning in the grates; very hospitable atmosphere. After dinner took a walk around the grounds and after listened to the music and saw very interesting pictures in the hotel; one of the date industry and another the life of Thomas Jefferson. Ate a date off the tree today. Ripe and stunted. Do not mature in this climate.

Samarkand Persian Hotel in Santa Barbara, ca.1920. Digitally reproduced by the USC Digital Library, from the California Historical Society Collection at the University of Southern California.
July 2, 1924: After breakfasting at the Arlington and making a tour of inspection around the hotel we started out and came to the most beautiful views of any we have yet seen, winding up mountains along precipitous curves and looking over into canyons miles below, and thru gaps in the mts. to vistas of the blue sea beyond. Range after range of hazy blue mts. of varying heights visible against the horizon, [?] here and there a house perched at a dizzy altitude. Went thru the Samarkand Hotel, of Persian architecture. In front are a series of terraces around which the hotel forms a semi-circle. These are bordered with all kinds of colors of flowers in buds. In the center are ponds, one at each level, filled with goldfish, yellow, blue, red and white water lilies. Beyond are the mts. On the steps are peacock blue vases filled with pink and white flowers. Also, a beautiful red, blue and yellow parrot in the garden. The interior furnishings are also very beautiful. Upon leaving here we rode thru what is known as Cold Spring Canyon. Passed the estates of Curnour[?], McCormack and Gillespie, the last [???] being open to the public. Saw many oleander, magnolia and flaming eucalyptus and pepper trees beside live oaks laden with Spanish moss and of course flowers and citrus trees everywhere.
We ride thru the New Hall tunnel pierced thru the mountains, and thru the towns of Peru, Fillmore, Santa Paula, and Montecito. The smallest and most unpretentious homes along the way attract attention by their lovely settings and are beautified by rich adornment s of flowers. Red and pink geraniums are most in evidence. I also saw the first yellow poppies on this ride, growing by the way side. One house almost hidden by giant hydrangea.

Villa Capistrano, the Julian Eltinge Residence. Courtesy of Marcelio Vavala, via.
Also passed thru Mixville on this ride where Tom Mix has his studio and horses. Saw a man breaking in a bronco. Saw the home of Julian Eltinge built up on a hill on the outskirts of Glendale and rode thru [Sanges?] which is at the end of the old Santa Fe trail and a fair-sized town.
Los Angeles

Fremont Entrance to Elysian Park, October 2, 1927. Digitally reproduced by the USC Digital Library, from the California Historical Society Collection at the University of Southern California.
July 3, 1924: Walked down Broadway to Boos Bros. cafeteria for lunch. Then met Mrs. Kiwel at the Orpheum where we saw a very good vaudeville show after which we took a taxi and rode thru Elysian Park, one of the highest points in the city affording many lovely views. This park is thickly wooded with pine trees and there are also many flowers. A camping sight for autoists is provided with stoves and running water. Washing and cooking can be done here. We took Mrs. Kiwel to the Alexandria for dinner.

July 4, 1924: We spent a very quiet day in the hotel as father did not wish to take any trip on account of the crowds. Went to the Alexandria cafeteria for lunch. Noticeable diminution in the traffic which is usually so dense. All the people seem to have gone to the country or the beaches. Streets comparatively quiet tho there is of course some shooting.
July 5, 1924: This morning we had a visit from Carlyn Okin who brought us the most beautiful box of cakes and candies I have ever seen (from the Elite shop). The sweet shops in this city are unusually attractive. This afternoon we were greatly surprised to see Miss Zang who just came to this hotel. This is our last day in Los Angeles. It is a big booming city with plenty of life and excitement, yet it has not yet outgrown its small town atmosphere as is evidenced by its numerous penny arcades, itinerant street venders and fakirs that remind one of a circus town. I have never seen so many eating places. The Mexicans form a large part of the population. They have their own quarters to live in, with signs written in Spanish and there is also a China Town. The residences of the wealthy Angelenos are palatial and they seem to be hospitable here. The office and government buildings are imposing and the schools here as everywhere we have been in Cal. are remarkably beautiful, even those in the little towns.
We’ll continue with Grace’s California adventures next week – see you on Tuesday!
Thanks for reading “Traveling with Grace,” a series where we’re sharing (and annotating) posts from the travel diaries of Grace Amelia Hecht, native Baltimorean, b. 1897 and d. 1955. As mentioned in my introductory post transcription errors sometimes occur and I’ve made my best guesses where possible, denoted by [brackets]. – Rachel Kassman, marketing manager