Travels with Grace: Getting to California, 1924
Welcome to the next segment of our 2019 #TravelTuesday series: Travels with Grace. Today we begin to follow Grace on her 1924 adventure, where she and her family set out from New York to explore the West Coast and Canada!
New York
June 4, 1924: Left Balto. at 10:30 A.M. Lunched on train. Arrived at New York at 3:15 P.M. Went straight to Tyson’s for theatre tickets and from there to Alamac where Aunt Henriette was waiting for us. As soon as we had washed and dressed, we went to the Hamilton. Here Aunt Julia, Cousin Hattie Sterns, Marjorie, Billy, Jimmie and Rebecca Millhower greeted us. Later Albert came and took us to dinner. R. had invited us to her apt. at the Ansonia, but we could not accept so she dined with us instead. At 7:30 we three went to the Century and saw “The Miracle.” The illusion of a cathedral is complete in every detail. As a spectacle the play is stupendous, and it is almost impossible to watch it all as there is so much acting going on simultaneously. Owing to the arrangement of the theatre and the nature of the performance the audience feels itself a part of it. The most remarkable . . . acting is done by the Madonna and the nun. The chanting and the organ music also are beautiful additions to the play. On return to the hotel visited Doug[?] and Rona on the roof. [rather by awe?]
On the Atlantic
June 5, 1924: Breakfast at the Alamac where Golda joined us. later Cousin Hattie, Aunts Julia and Henriette, and Rebecca visited us and at 1:00 P.M. we left for the boat. Golda, Meyer and Mrs. [Sturrp?] came to see us off and stayed on the pier until the boat pulled out. Our stateroom on board the Manchuria is filled with flowers and very cozy. The service so far is A. no. 1. We were quite puffed up at receiving so many telegrams and gifts. Sat on deck in steamer chairs awhile this afternoon and had our tea there. Water very smooth but too cold to sit on deck in the evening. Music in the saloon. (Image via.)
June 6, 1924: They filled the swimming tank between decks today and many of the passengers enjoyed a dip. Talked to a very pleasant lady from Los Angeles who kindly gave us some information, which I think will prove useful concerning this city. Also met a Mrs. Strauss from New York and a Russian rabbi from Boston who is on his way to Havana to visit his daughters. He conducted services in the intermediate this evening and will repeat them tomorrow and Sunday for Shavuoth. The passengers on the whole are not particularly sociable though there are a few exceptions.June 7, 1924: It rained a little this morning. Sat in the library and read Ibsens’ “Ghosts.” [1]But the sun came out in the afternoon, so we went on deck and enjoyed the breeze which was very welcome as we are getting pretty well on toward the south. We passed Cape Hatteras this morning and they said we were pretty lucky to have had such a comparatively calm sea. One leads a very lazy life on the boat, and one eats almost constantly. The meals are very tempting and varied and abundant. Between meals in the morning they serve bouillon and crackers and in the afternoon tea and cakes. The orchestra plays an hour morning, afternoon and evening and tonight they danced on the upper deck which was strung with red and green lights. One lady passenger has a beautiful parrot in her stateroom which talks a great deal and affords much amusement. I fed him sour cherries tonight.
[1] Audio recording of “Ghosts”
Havana
June 9, 1924: Had my breakfast on deck this morning and immediately afterwards (about 7:30am) the doctor had me lowered in a wire Casket to the lighter which carried us over to Havana. Practically all of the passengers went over We had a wonderful auto ride for three hours. In old Havana the streets are extremely narrow, the first floors of the buildings is usually flush with the pavement but set back by the width of a porch, shaded by heavy columns and all open to the street. We saw many old negro women with white cloths tied over their heads and carrying baskets and bundles balanced thereon. Some of the large stores are very up-to-date and expensive looking. There is a decidedly foreign air about the whole city. The men are extremely handsome and the women beautiful but very artificial looking.
The Prado is a lovely, wide thoroughfare running thru the center of the city to the waterfront. In the middle of it are flower beds, trees and statues. Handsome hotels and public buildings face it on either side. The [Malecón], a fine road runs beside the sea wall. In Vedado and other suburbs are lovely bungalows and mansions. Royal palms, pineapples, coconuts and profusions of flowers everywhere. We bought red bananas and [mameos?] and mangoes. Had free beer in the tropical gardens. Cows and innumerable goats pasture in the streets everywhere. (Image via Havana Journal.)
On the Atlantic
June 10, 1924: This afternoon we watched the crew have their fire drill. They all put on the life preservers and marched around the various decks turning on the hoses. Last night one of the bakers died, heat stroke some say. They buried him at sea at eleven o’clock tonight and it was very sad and impressive. Some of the passengers sang “Jesus Lover of My Soul” and “Nearer My God to Thee.” The coffin was dropped with the flag and when it was lowered the boat stopped for five minutes (Just as it dropped, we saw a brilliant shooting star like a sky rocket. This southern sky is beautiful at night and we are having moonlight all the way.). Then they strewed flowers on the water and the bugler blew taps and the steam whistle blew 3 blasts. It was all over.
On the Caribbean
June 11, 1924: Today the water was quite rough for the first time and a number of the passengers were sick but I feel fine and am able to take my usual walk around the decks in spite of the boat’s rocking. Started to read “The Jew and Civilization” by Ada Sterling which Mr. Strauss lent me, and find it interesting. Met a Mrs. Brown from New Orleans and find we have mutual acquaintances. Also talked to a charming lady from Bridgeport, Conn, who is interested in politics. She had a long discussion with father.
The Panama Canal
June 12, 1924: We had luncheon moved up half an hour so as to five us an opportunity to watch the approach to the canal. At 2:30 P.M. we arrived at Colon harbor, the Atlantic entrance to the canal. Both Colon and Cristobal were typical Spanish towns. In the forward[?] place we saw the Washington Hotel, quite a pretty building and the Marine Hospital and soldiers barracks, Everyone says the heat here is usually intense but today it was tempered by rain (this is their fall season so it was really quite pleasant). First came the Gatun locks in 3 divisions, the Gatun Lake the largest artificial lake in the world they say, which took about 4 hours to cross (it is lined on all sides by the densest tropical growth, a veritable jungle, with little islets scattered over it, and here and there a tall bare tree sticking up out of the water like a giant clothes hanger. Then comes the Gaillard or Culebra Cut along which 3 dredgers are constantly working with hydraulic pressure; and occasionally little cascades of fresh water fall gradually over the hills. The railroad tracks run along the side of the canal and at one place we saw 3 kinds of transportation simultaneously, namely train, boat and airoplane.
Next, we came to the Pedro Miguel locks, in our section, and a little further on the Miraflores, in two, making 6 sections in all. Where the boat starts thru the canal a crew of natives board here and take command until we reach the other end. In going thru the [canal] 6 electric mules or engines are hitched to the vessel by means of a heavy steel cable, 3 on either side. These climb up an almost perpendicular slope and when they reach the top the heavy [veon??], water-tight gates close behind us, the water fills in from bottom and the boat is lifted 53 ft. so quietly that it is hardly perceptible. Then another gate opens in front of us and we slip out to the next lock where the same process is repeated. At the opposite end the boat is lowered some 30 odd feet in the same manner as it had been previously raised, the level of the Pacific being some eighteen feet higher than that of the Atlantic. At the Pacific end are situated Balboa, a model little town, the port of the old city of Panama, and the latter which is the largest city on the Isthmus. Here everyone visits the cafes and cabarets, which are supposed to be quite wild. The shops are lovely, and one can find great bargains in all imported goods as the taxes are low. Mother bought two very pretty kimonos. Men came on board selling panama hats quite reasonable. Between Colo and Cristobal, a distance of about 50 miles, there is little or no sign of life, tho we did see 1 or 2 shacks scarcely fit for habitation.
On the Pacific
June 13, 1924: Spent a quiet day reading and writing. The rocky coast of Nicaragua visible all day in the distance with the surf beating and pounding along it, the waves spurting up like water spouts in places.
June 14, 1924: Met a very pleasant lady from Chile (Mrs. Kiwel[?]) who with her husband and children are returning to Los Angeles for a visit. They both speak Spanish fluently. In the evening we played checkers and I won all 3 games.
June 16, 1924: This morning we saw a school of porpoises jumping around in the water and some of them leaped high in the air. The sunset was lovely this evening and now I can better appreciate why they call the West “golden” for the sky and water alike are suffused with a gold glow. But there is hardly any twilight here. Almost as soon as the sun sinks the sky is dark. Tonight I had a very pleasant time on deck talking to Mrs. Smith, the lady from Bridgeport, Conn, and Mrs. Kiwell who told us lots of interesting things about Chile. I also talked a while to Mr. Poore the lecturer and asked him to explain to me the picture of the “Synagogue” by Sargent, who it seems is a personal friend of his, but he said he didn’t understand it any more than I did. (Image via.)
June 17, 1924: This morning I listened to the rehearsal of the program which is to be given tomorrow night in the intermediate. Tonight, one of the girls at the table back of ours had a birthday party. The table was decorated, and all the young people wore funny caps and received favors. There was a big birthday cake with eighteen candles burning on it and the name “Frances” in chocolate, which they passed around for everyone to see. I went back to Mrs. Kiwell’s room where she showed us a beautiful collection of embroidered kimonos, handsome linen bed coverings and table appointments, and all great bargains which she bought in Panama.
June 18, 1924: This afternoon was devoted to sports on the upper deck, potatoe, sack, + 3-legged races, hammering and cigarette lighting contests, races for the children, etc. It started with a grand march for everybody and father carried the drum. Prized for which a collection was made among the passengers, will be distributed tomorrow. Tonight, we all went back to the intermediate where at 8:00 P.M. started a most enjoyable program of music, singing, dancing, recitations, pantomime, etc. followed by a masquerade dance. It was most democratic, and all had a good time. At 9:30 we went back to the dining saloon where Mr. Poore gave us an illustrated lecture on Italy. This being the first cool day we have had in some time. The people were in a good mood for the festivities.
June 19, 1924: This morning the temperature dropped to 65 degrees and the ship’s crew underwent a sudden transformation from their white to their blue uniforms. Tonight, there was a masque ball for the first class passengers and the costumes, all of which were made hastily from the materials at hand were both pretty and original. Some were as follows: ladies, Miss Canada (draped in the Union Jack), a girl from Toronto, a rag doll, a Colonial lady, a snowball, Chinese cook, Excess baggage, Fatima cigarettes, Siss Hopkins, Chinese manadarin girl – men – pirates, Ku Kluxers, sailors, Scotch highlander, Hula Hula dancers, Sandwich man (Sloppy Joe’s in Havana), Chinamen, and some dressed as women. Prizes were given for the prettiest and most original. Dutch boy and girl, “old souls”[?] and trained nurse. In the afternoon there was a deck golf tournament and shuffleboard. (This image shows a Hecht family party, c. 1890-1920, JMM 1985.155.2. We don’t think Grace is in this photo, but if you spot her, let us know!)
June 20, 1924: Tonight, our last night on the boat, was the captain’s dinner (by the way I don’t think much of him) and this morning in about 10 minutes I wrote a toast for the occasion. (For copy look in back of book.) It was a gala affair, the room being decorated with flowers and flags, full dress among the men and handsome gowns among the women predominating, the food was particularly fine, and the wine flowed. Mr. Shapler treated our table to champagne. The people were all very cordial and friendly (it’s a pity they could not have been like that from the start). Mr. Poore was toast-master, and most of the toasted were punk but luckily by then there weren’t many as some of the speakers escaped. Mr. Miller from Danville, VA[?], the dram[?] of the passengers, was very funny. I received a big ovation for my verses, nearly everyone on the ship including officers, passengers, and help came up to congratulate me and it was indeed a proud moment in my life. A good many asked me for copies of it.
Thanks for reading “Traveling with Grace,” a series where we’re sharing (and annotating) posts from the travel diaries of Grace Amelia Hecht, native Baltimorean, b. 1897 and d. 1955. As mentioned in my introductory post transcription errors sometimes occur and I’ve made my best guesses where possible, denoted by [brackets]. – Rachel Kassman, marketing manager